PVC (Plastic) 18 Count Canvas by Mill Hill - 9/22/26

September 22, 2026--With Zweigart 18 count mono canvas being so difficult to acquire these days, I thought I'd try Mill Hill's new 18 count PVC (plastic) canvas.   It comes in 9" x 12" sheets in color white only.  A colorfast marker worked well and I'll next try acrylic paints on it.  Mill Hll recommends using size 24 or 26 tapestry needles and they aren't kidding.  This limits the type of threads to strandable floss or smaller metallics (e.g., 2 strands of Kreinik size 8).  Ribbon type threads won't work.  They require needles that are too large.

Note:  After perusing Wichelt's website, it appears that 18 count perforated paper is no longer available (only 14 count can still be purchased).

I did try stitching with a metallic ribbon using a size 24 needle and found I had to pull the needle through the PVC canvas with plyers.  It was nearly impossible to go from a "clean" (empty) hole into a "dirty" (used) hole.  A lot of pulling was involved.  After working up a few bargello rows, I noticed the plastic canvas began to buckle and stretch.  The holes, however, barely budged.   So, I removed the stitches to see how bad the plastic fared, and the pictures are below (front and back) show the distortion.  

Distortion Caused by Too Large Needle and Thread

Closeup Front of Canvas Showing Distortion

Closeback Back of Canvas Showing Distortion

I now wondered if the canvas was ruined or could it be salvaged for a different project.  The answer is YES, it can be salvaged.  I applied some hot air using my hair dryer for a few seconds and the plastic "shrunk" to its original size (for the most part).  You can see in the below photos how smooth the plastic became after applying heat.  Some of the holes look a little wonky, so I'll stitch up another project over the repaired area and see how it looks.

Back of Canvas with Distortion Removed by Heat

Front of Canvas with Distortion Removed by Heat

So now I'm wondering if I had left the heavy metallic stitches in place then applied heat, would the canvas shrink back to it's original form.  Would the threads lie flat or would the tension look uneven?  This will be my next experiment--stay tuned.

Needle Puller Tool - 9/12/26

September 12, 2026—I have a new favorite tool: the needle puller I purchased from Amazon.

About a week ago, Jane at Chilly Hollow wrote about a Bohin Needle Puller used by quilters. I learned that Amazon sells it for about $23, while a generic version of the same tool costs $12—so I snapped one up. There are plenty of YouTube videos that show how to use the device. Because arthritis has caused my fingers to lose strength, I had been using small pliers to pull needles through the back of my work to secure thread. This needle puller fits comfortably in my hand and is so easy to use. It’s perfectly designed to work like a thimble for pushing the needle through fibers, then like a puller to complete the action.

I’ve even developed a side-scoop method: I guide the needle into the puller, press the plunger to secure it, and then pull. Easy.

 

Note:  These are stock photos taken from Amazon's website.

Online Security - Test 2 - 4/29/30

4/29/30--This is a test only.  Please ignore.  Thanks.

March 19, 2024--Wow, have I been busy, but unfortunately not with needlepoint.  Recently my husband and I have become aware of the need to “lock down”, for security purposes, all of our online dealings, such as with email, financial, shopping and entertainment accounts.   This has entailed educating ourselves on the meaning and use of MFAs (Multi-Factor Authentications) that go beyond 2FAs (2 Factor Authentications where, in addition to using a password, a code is sent to your telephone via text to verify your identity).   

You can stop reading here if this subject is of no interest to you (and I wouldn’t blame you for that).

We felt secure with 2FAs, but not so much now that "sim swapping" has become very popular.  We understand that even if your mobile carrier requires a security code before they’ll work with you, or someone claiming to be you, there is no guarantee that a disgruntled employee of the company will not sell your data (and security code) to the highest bidder (and that’s already being done).  So now, as part of the MFA arsenal, are online authenticator “passkeys” which give you a code to verify who you are, but the code changes every 30 seconds or so and is not sent through a text, but through an authenticator app.  This means anyone who obtains access to your phone probably cannot move quickly enough to cause you any financial hurt. 

But I understand the very best thing for online security now is to use hardware passkeys like those made by Yubiko*.  The idea is to set up two passkeys (one to keep with you and one to keep in a safe in case you lose one).   The process is a bit involved, but supposedly worth it since your accounts cannot be hacked at all without your hardware passkey.  This last process in setting up the hardware passkeys is the one that's stressing me out the most.  We're also using biometrics (fingerprint and facial recognition) as often as possible.

Of course, the first line of defense against being hacked is to use a very long and complex 20+ character password that is different for every online account.   So, I purchased a password manager to help me keep track of it all and to generate those convoluted passwords.   This too took time (I love alliterations).

Lastly, we stamped the following phrase on our foreheads—thou shall never open phishing links from any source whatsoever (emails, texts, etc.).  NEVER, NEVER, NEVER!!   

If you’ve gotten to this point, congratulations!  And I feel your pain since you’ve probably gone through this too.  It has taken us some serious time to learn about, and set up, all the security measures--time I really wanted to spend needlepointing.  Oh well, and here’s the big sigh……

PS:  We haven't been hacked, thank God, but are aware of how sophisticated hackers have become in their attempts to bleed you dry, so we are taking preemptive steps to protect ourselves as much as possible.  And I hope my explanations are not too far off base.

*We have no financial affiliation with this company--just like their product.

Floor Stand Clamp Repaired Again - 2/3/23

February 3, 2023--Exactly eight years ago today, I blogged about the clamp to my K's Creations floor stand having to be repaired (see older post below).  Well, it had to be repaired again, but this time I like the new one so much better.  For one thing, the top "Tri-knob" is much easier on my hand when tightening or loosening the clamp than the metal "T-knob" I had.  Secondly, the top portion of the clamp is now made of wood which, in my opinion, seems to "give" just enough to seriously tighten, but not enough to strip the screw.  Lastly, I was given a whole new clamp with an improved bar that attaches to the arm of the floor stand.  Easier to attach and feels more secure.

The leather pieces you see are installed by me with glue dots to help hold my stretcher bars in place.  I stitch "in the well", so the tacks that I use to mount my canvas unto stretcher bars would cause the bars to slip around in the clamp.  This doesn't happen anymore because the tacks "sink" into the leather.

Now, if I need to get this repaired again in another eight years, I hope Brett Schulle of K's will still be able to help me.  He has been very responsive and helpful.

Floor Stand Clamp Repair 2/3/15

February 3, 2015--I really do love my floor stand from K's Creations but had a problem with the clamp.  Discovered I had totally stripped the clamp's screw and it would no longer hold stretcher bars in place.  You can see this in the first picture.  Frantically I contacted the fine folks at K's using the contact tab on their web site and Brett Schulle immediately responded, requesting I mail the clamp to him for repair, after which he would mail it back to me.  

Clamp with Stripped Screw

So off to the post office to mail the clamp, which by the way, was very easy to remove from the stand's long horizontal arm.    And in no time at all, I received the fully repaired clamp in the mail. Easily got it screwed back onto the arm and am in business again, happily stitching.

Newly Repaired Clamp

You may notice there is a piece of leather on the clamp's bottom plate.  I put this in place using "glue dots" and find it really helps to hold stretcher bars with less tightening of the screw.  This is because I stitch in the well, tacking the canvas unto the back of my stretcher bars.  All too often the tacks would slide and slip in the clamp, causing me to overtighten the screw.  Now those tacks settle into the soft leather with no slippage.   Easy solution and hope it may help someone who may have this problem.

2 comments:

A Needleart Judge's Reference by NAN - A Review

June 22, 2022--I've never written a book review before, but this book, or rather booklet, proved worthy of discussion.      As a helper/teller at the Rehoboth Beach Museum's Annual Needleworkers Exhibit, I found this book chock full of helpful information.  

Firstly, it is published by the National Acadamy of Needlearts (NAN) and is available here on their website.  As you can see from the chapters shown on the information page, copied below, there is so much to assist judges and exhibit planners in putting together a successful exhibition.  I especially liked the last section entitled Other Skills and Considerations.  I hope you'll agree with me that it's a valuable resource for those involved with needlework exhibitions.

Blog Reader Recommendation - 4/20/22

 April 20, 2022--I can no longer recommend Bloglovin' to use as a blog reader.  They have been "down" for nearly a week now, so I set up my favorite blogs to read on Feedly   The account is free if you follow less than 100 blogs and it's easy to set up.   Feedly also offers lots of tools and options for the more ambitious readers.   Have fun.

Magnetic Notes - 4/19/2022

April 19, 2022--I'm writing to share information about Magnetic Notes by Tesla Amazing, a most useful placemarker sheet.  Unlike Post-It Notes, these thin sheets have no "glue" or sticky surface.  Instead, they magnetically stick to a smooth surface (including my iPad) and can easily be moved around.  Thanks, Sue Reed, for sharing this find with those of us in the Tulip Time stitching class.   

They come in various sizes, and I prefer Size L, 7.87" x 3.94".

Graph Management - 1/28/22

January 28, 2022--I want to share a hint about marking up stitching design graphs and using a laying tool at the same time.  

Here's what I used to do--I would have a paper copy of the graph on a table beside me, a highlighter marker in my lap (and staining my clothes, etc.), and a laying tool in my hand.  Managing this was very cumbersome.

Here's what I do now--I take a photo of the graph with my iPhone, then open the photo on my iPad where I can select the little pen icon to mark up the photo with my iPen.  I can then keep the iPad on my lap where it is so easy to highlight the stitch I just completed on the graph using my iPen.  Since I need to keep the iPen in my hand for this purpose, I tried using it as a laying tool and surprisingly enough, it works quite well.  No more switching from iPen to laying tool.   I also like the fact that I can "erase" the highlighted areas of the graph if I need to use it again for a different section of the project.  I can also make notes on the photo with my iPen and save the photo for future reference.  It's also easy to reverse, rotate, flip, etc. the iPad photo.  The possibilities are endless.

I suspect many of you also do something like this, but for those who haven't tried it, I hope it works well for you too.

Using iPen to Highlight Completed Stitches on Graph Photo on iPad

Using iPen as a Laying Tool

Graph Gripper - 3/13/21

 March 13, 2021--A new favorite tool of mine is the Yarn Tree Graph Gripper.  The "gripper" is large enough to attach to 3/4" wide stretcher bars (but not Evertites).  Often enough I copy a stitch diagram from my instructions and cut off everything but the graph and hold it in place using the Graph Gripper's clip (see photos below).   The Gripper is very flexible and can be maneuvered into any number of positions while not slipping out of place (hope this makes sense).

Yarn Tree Graph Gripper Bent Sideways

Yarn Tree Graph Gripper Kept Upright

Exhibitions and Judging

September 12, 2019--Recently I've heard from so many stitchers wondering what it takes to win ribbons at needlework exhibits.  So I'm reposting an older blog post about this exact subject.  Here it is below.

Award won 2011

March 13, 2014--I've been having a great deal of fun working as a teller* for the judge of this year's Rehoboth Beach Museum's Annual Needlework Exhibit which runs March 15 through May 11, 2014.  Even though it's a lot of work, it is the best way to view each piece and learn directly from the judge.  Her wonderful critiques have taught me so much and below are some recommendations to be aware of when stitching which will move you in the direction of winning ribbons (not a complete list):

• Be sure the "finishing" is appropriate to the piece and well done.  If it's framed, the frame and matting should not overwhelm the stitching, but instead compliment it.  The canvas or fabric should not be warped or wavy in the frame, but instead be tightly mounted.  If a pillow, it should be firmly stuffed and the ears (corners) should not flop (use extra stuffing in the corners).  Any embellishment (fringe, cording, fabric framing, etc.) should compliment the piece and not distract from it.
• Maintain the thread "twist" as you stitch (e.g., when using perles, Watercolours, etc).  Once a thread loses its twist, light will reflect differently on it, giving it a flatter appearance.
• Maintain tension as you stitch.  A judge can see stitches that become tighter or looser causing distortions, bumps, lumps, etc.
• Use shorter lengths of thread to lessen wear and tear on the fibers.  Threads that are too long will show fraying, fuzzing, lose their twist, etc.
• When doing stitches where one thread overlays another (e.g., cross stitches), they need to all cross in the same direction.
• Work stitches in a consistent direction on your fabric or canvas.  Moving diagonally from top to bottom of the canvas then switching from bottom to top in the middle of a section,  or stitching vertically on some stitches, then horizontally on others, will cause the canvas to show through, distort the stitching, change your tension, etc.
• Use enough thread in your needle to adequately cover the canvas or fabric without causing bulk.
• When stitching with multiple strands in the needle or with ribbon-like threads/metallics, be sure to use a laying tool so the stitch lies flat over the canvas, avoiding surface twisting of the stitch.  Try using the "railroad" method when stitching with two strands.
• Be careful when pulling the thread tail through stitches on the back of the canvas by not pulling too tightly which can distort the last stitch, or cause a ridge to show on the front.
• Be sure all tails are properly tucked away in the back so they will not show through the fabric or canvas.
• Try to not carry thread on the back of unstitched areas of the fabric or canvas to eliminate "show through".
• Canvas or linen should be smooth with no folds, wrinkles or creases which would distort your stitches.
• Beads should be double stitched, lassoed, etc. so they don't "flop", become loose, etc.
• Watch out for stray thread bits, lint, animal hair, etc. under the glass when your piece is framed.  Often the framer won't see these things, but a judge will.
• Always check your work for missed or incomplete stitches--use a magnifying glass if you have to.  The judge certainly will.

I'm reminded that we all sometimes have the same question when viewing pieces in an exhibit--the mystery of why some win ribbons while others do not.   Often enough those that don't get ribbons are the ones we most enjoy, so please don't hesitate to exhibit your work, for they are a joy to the rest of us to see.

PS.  The items I placed in this year's exhibit are listed in the above tab called "Exhibited Pieces".

*A teller is someone who is at the service of the judge--bringing pieces to them for analysis, taking notes, clearing the judge's work area, etc.

Stretcher Bars Organized - 1/27/19

January 27, 2019--After reading multiple blogs and Needlepoint Nation entries on FB about organizing stuff, I decided to do something about a messy drawer filled with various lengths and widths of stretcher bars.  I can't take credit for the idea of using a liquor box and its dividers to sort the bars, but decided to give it a try.

I had to tape the ends of all the dividers to the inside of the box to keep the bars from slipping into surrounding slots, but once I did that, the bars are now perfectly organized from the smallest to the largest.   I also wrote the size of each bar on the top and bottom for easy viewing.

The box, as ugly as it looks, fits perfectly in my craft room closet and is readily accessible.  Wish I had done this years ago.

Liquor Box filled with Organized Stretcher Bars

Liquor Box with Bottle Dividers Taped to Sides of Box for Stability and Slot Separation

Needlepoint Slump - 11/26/18

November 26, 2018--I hit a needlepoint slump over the last few months.  Just couldn't seem to get into anything I have to stitch--wasn't even interested in starting new projects.  What's a person to do?

Well, Gary Parr and Christine Williams of the podcast Fiber Talk suggested doing something totally different to get re-invigorated, so to speak.  So I chose to learn Portuguese Knitting and made a few small wearables using this new technique.  I found a number of YouTube videos on the subject, but the best so far is by Andrea Wong.  Her videos, however, are only available on Blueprint (a spin off of Craftsy), but so worth the subscription fee (note--you may find some on YouTube).  I have learned so many techniques to enhance Portuguese Knitting and still refer to her instructions every now and then.  As part of my Blueprint subscription, I received yarn, needles and instructions to knit the three items, pictured below, at no cost:  a cowl, hat with pom pom and fingerless gloves.   Knitting these items has served the purpose--I'm now needlepointing on an old class project and starting an older Janet Zickler Casey santa.  The break was good.

Cowl, Hat, Fingerless Gloves

BTW, I love to do Portuguese Knitting while traveling in the car.  The thing I most appreciate is how the yarn is held in the right hand for tension.   My hands have a bit of arthritis and I wasn't able to maintain good tension using the Continental style of knitting.  One thing I do differently is how I manage the thread from the front.  Instead of using a pin attached to the front left of clothing (which can put a hole in your blouse, etc.) or wrapping the yarn around my neck (which I find irritating), I use a small metal binder clip.  The silver prongs can be removed from the gray metal clip so that yarn can run through it (see photo below).

Using Binder Clip to Control Tension while Portuguese Knitting

My community has a knitting club which meets on Friday mornings and they are working on so many beautiful things.  Now I'm getting excited about knitting shawls, ponchos, baby blankets, etc.  A nice change from dish or wash cloths.  Again--I knit in the car only--don't have to worry about dropping threaders, needles, thread, etc.

Hope you had a very Happy Thanksgiving.

Threading a Needle - 9/13/18

September 13, 2018--I'm trying a new threading technique I recently heard or read about and find it works very well.  Wish I could remember where I learned this--would love to give credit where credit is due.

First, I read when using multiple strands of floss, (cotton, silk, etc.), it's easier to lay the stitches on your canvas if you reverse some of the threads in the needle.  For example, if you have 4 strands in your needle, reverse 2 of the strands.  I believe this works because the "nap" of the floss isn't all going in the same direction.  However, you won't see any difference in appearance of the threads once stitched and you should have less "knotting" and twisting.

Second, if you cut a piece of thread twice the length you normally use, then pass the end of that length through the needle and match up the ends--you will have a naturally occurring reversal of threads.  Of course, be sure to separate out each strand from your skein before placing multiple strands in the needle.

Third, using this method of threading your needle leaves you with NO tail at the needle's eye, so you will need less thread when ending.

Fourth, your thread won't slip out of the needle's eye when pulled too hard or if the needle is left to dangle.

Fifth, the thread nearest the needle will no longer be damaged as you move the ends away from or nearer the eye (you won't have to do this).

Have I convinced you to try this yet?  LOL.

Here's a photo of 2 strands threaded through a needle's eye, then folded over to make 4 strands.

PS:  If you make an error and must "reverse" your stitching and the needle gets caught in stitches above or below the row you're working on, just cut your thread closest to the needle's eye, undo your stitches that were done incorrectly, then thread up again as you had done in the past.

2 Strands into 4 strands

Project Bag Free - 7/19/18

July 19, 2018--I recently purchased some blankets online and they came in the most wonderful plastic bags to reuse as needlepoint project bags.

The one pictured below has a sturdy handle on the top and a zippered opening.  The size is 24" long by 16" tall by 4" wide--perfect for those extra large projects which, if purchasing a similarly sized project bag from a vendor, would require a hefty price.  This one was free.

And free is very, very good!!

PS.  The project bag is modeled by my current WIP:  Let The Good Times Roll which is on 22" x 14" stretcher bars.  Fits perfectly.

Blanket Bag aka Needlepoint Project Bag

Project Bag Handle

Project Bag Zipper Pull

Table Clamp - 7/12/18

July 12, 2018--Yesterday, in the mail, I received an order placed with BeStitched Needlepoint in Arizona early last month, and couldn't be happier.  It's a K's Creations Table Clamp which can be used with the swivel head from my K's Creations Floor Stand.  Below is a photo of my "trial" setup.

This is going to be very handy at seminar, retreats, etc. where table space is limited.  I'll be able to work off the table to stitch my project and keep the table space for all my "stuff".  The clamp will also be much easier to carry around than a heavy floor stand.

BeStitched has a video on how to set up the clamp.  It can be found here.

K's Creations Table Clamp

Canvas Thread Management - 7/1/18

July 1, 2018--I recently read or heard about using little plastic clips as thread management tools (to keep thread spaghetti neatly out of the way of stitching, etc.) and thought I would give it a try.  I understand the clips were glued to magnets, so I tried that--FAIL.  They were unwieldly when trying to hold the clip open to pull thread tightly into the clip before closing.  Then the clip came unglued from the magnet and everything flew all over the place.

Solution:  Since the clips themselves have a little metal piece on their underside, I used a powerful little magnet (the kind purchased from a hardware store) on the backside of the canvas to hold the clip.  Now it's much easier to open and close the clip and the metal piece on the clip's front doubles as a needle minder.  SUCCESS.

Little Clip Holding Thread Out of The Way and Used as Needle Minder

Back of Clip Showing Magnetic Metal Piece.

Beading Thread - 6/18/18

June 18, 2018--I have another favorite "tool" and this time it's beading thread--well, not so much a thread as a fishing line.  I use Berkley FireLine Crystal 6 lb. .15mm line.   It's a pre-waxed, braided cord that doesn't break, fray or knot.

I can easily thread my favorite beading needle (a size 28 which slides easily through most beads) without using a threader.   Once I worked with small pearl beads and didn't have a needle small enough to use, so I just manually pushed the FireLine through each bead and that worked perfectly.

Because it's a clear crystal line, it can be used with most bead colors and won't be visible on the canvas.

This line is readily available online from a number of sources, e.g., Amazon.com, eBay, etc.  and many beading companies offer it with their name on the spool.  However, I found it is less expensive to purchase the line from a fishing retailer rather than a beading store.

New Source for Backing Boards--Who Knew - 5/21/18

May 21, 2018--A member of Delaware's Seashore Chapter of ANG introduced us to a type of backing board she uses when "finishing" her needlepoint into ornaments and the like.   It's relatively thin (24 point board weight), making it easy to cut with scissors or a rotary blade; is certified acid free; and conveniently sized at 8.5" x 11" (each sheet is large enough to cut front and back of two ornaments).  There are 100 boards per package and it's reasonably priced (found mine on Amazon.com).

Of course, its original purpose is for use as backing to comic books and similarly sized magazines.  Who knew.

Thanks Linda C. for sharing this information.

Project List and Thread Inventory Management - 3/23/18

March 23, 2018--For many years (since 2013) I've used and loved DDH Software's HanDBase app to manage my Projects and Thread Inventory (see Favorite Apps and Tools page on the right).  Loved having the ability to sync the data from my PC to my iPad and iPhone and visa versa.  It was the only app I could find that handled thousands of records without crashing, and could be personalized.

However, I've had three issues--firstly, the sync had to be done manually from my PC to each device (no "cloud" here); secondly, DDH Software is a one-man shop (no support if something happens to this guy); and thirdly, when I purchased new equipment (PC, laptop, iPad, iPhone, etc.), it was a bear to re-sync my data to my new equipment.  

In comes Microsoft's OneDrive, a cloud storage system that I'm subscribed to along with Microsoft Office 365.  For a nominal amount each year, both my husband and I each get 1 TB of cloud storage and the latest and greatest Mircosoft Office tools (Word, Excel, Access, etc.).

What does this mean?  I can now use Excel to manage my needlework projects and threads inventory, etc. which is immediately and automatically synced to my OneDrive account.  I can access these Excel files from all my devices and if there is no internet connection, can download them to view offline.

It was very easy to transition my data from HanDBase to Excel by exporting everything to a Microsoft XLS file.  The ability to access the different files (e.g., to access the projects spreadsheet while in the threads inventory spreadsheet) was seamlessly exported to my new Excel files from HanDBase.  That was a nice surprise.

Any downside?  Yes, I miss the "form" used in HanDBase to input a new record.  It's easier to see all the fields in a record when using an input form.  In Excel, I need to scroll across a large spreadsheet and fill in each column.  Not the end of the world--I just need to adapt.

Now I want to learn more about Excel's advanced features.  Maybe an online class--but that is a mañana thing.  Of course, I could really "grow up" and learn how to use Access, including it's form layout tool.

New Tool For Straightening Threads - 2/28/18

February 28, 2018--I have a new favorite tool--a Vinida 2-in-1 cordless hair straightener ceramic flat iron and curling iron that is rechargeable with a USB charger. It was a little more expensive than some others, but I wanted a portable, rechargeable flat iron because we are unable to plug in appliances while taking classes at the ANG national seminar.   It is recommended the iron be turned off after each use, but that isn't a problem--when you turn it on, it heats up immediately and then cools quickly when you're finished using it.

Vinida Portable Flat Iron

I had some experience with similar irons brought into classes for students to use, but didn't think they were necessary.  Well, I'm a convert now.  I've been using it to straighten out everything--from RG/Neon Rays to RG/Splendor (love what it does to silk).  I find the threads don't kink up so much and are easier to "lay" flat and smooth.   I'm going to experiment using it for all threads.  Yes, it's an additional step to stitching, but at this point, it seems worth it.